Miller punch weights
Miller punch weights
Have any of you big time punchers out there ever use the miller punch weights for punching mats?
Just would like to get some feed back on what you guys think.
Also, any word if there going to make them in black, green pumpkin, and or Black instead of the gold to better match baits.
Thanks
Just would like to get some feed back on what you guys think.
Also, any word if there going to make them in black, green pumpkin, and or Black instead of the gold to better match baits.
Thanks
- Spookin'Em43
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:29 pm
- Location: Lincoln/Humboldt Ca
Re: Miller punch weights
I have not used them, but know a few guys who like them, and I believe he is starting to do some powder coating in green pumpkin, at least im pretty sure something was posted on here to long ago about that happening.
Derrick Hicks
Humboldt State University-FLW College Series
I Proudly Endorse:
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Humboldt State University-FLW College Series
I Proudly Endorse:
Dobyn's Rods, RBBassfishing, Abu Garcia, El Grande Lures, Trilene, Berkely, D&M Baits, Zipper Worms, Rod Glove, Tackle Warehouse, HatCams
Re: Miller punch weights
I have been using the Miller weights since the fall of last year. I am amazed at the ease to which these weights will pass thru any sort of matted surface cover. As ugly and gaudy as this thing looks, it's a masterful design, and the BASS do not care. I've had clients show up ready to punch the past three months, with a wide array of punching weights. Not one of them has showed up with a Miller wieght, yet every single one of them has asked for one of mine to use as they see the ease to which this weight goes thru and the number of fish I catch versus their results.
I'm using the Double Wide Beavers. For me I get the best hook ups and least tearing of this bait when I use a 5/0 Yamamoto Sugoi hook. I tried the short shank Trokars with the collar, but I experienced a lot of bait tearing, the hook due to it's sharp nature constantly gets stuck on the plant stems and leaves, and i've missed a lot of strong bites with the Trokar. It's also a must to attach a rubber stopper above the weight to keep it in place. This will stop the weight from traveling up the line creating slack between the weight and the bait. When yer tossing it up 20 feet to plow thru the thickest of Perrywinkle, with out the stopper, the weight will flop around and constantly plow into the bait and tears it up. It's also important to rig it right where the line first goes thru the hole in the top cone and comes out and attaches to yer hook from the middle exit slot. This allows yer bait to rock and form a T with the bait. The stopper also keeps the weight right on the hook eye so that if you flip it to the cover and it doesn't penetrate, you can shake it and that lower pointed edge will eventually find it's way thru the mat and the bait follows right behind.
I'm using the Double Wide Beavers. For me I get the best hook ups and least tearing of this bait when I use a 5/0 Yamamoto Sugoi hook. I tried the short shank Trokars with the collar, but I experienced a lot of bait tearing, the hook due to it's sharp nature constantly gets stuck on the plant stems and leaves, and i've missed a lot of strong bites with the Trokar. It's also a must to attach a rubber stopper above the weight to keep it in place. This will stop the weight from traveling up the line creating slack between the weight and the bait. When yer tossing it up 20 feet to plow thru the thickest of Perrywinkle, with out the stopper, the weight will flop around and constantly plow into the bait and tears it up. It's also important to rig it right where the line first goes thru the hole in the top cone and comes out and attaches to yer hook from the middle exit slot. This allows yer bait to rock and form a T with the bait. The stopper also keeps the weight right on the hook eye so that if you flip it to the cover and it doesn't penetrate, you can shake it and that lower pointed edge will eventually find it's way thru the mat and the bait follows right behind.
Re: Miller punch weights
The green ones kick bass
AKA Scott Dipman
Thanks to
S & C Environmental Solutions
http://WWW.TNTBAITS.com
http://www.BBGMARINE.com/
http://www.outdoorproshop.com/?Click=10937
http://www.millerpunchinweight.com/
Thanks to
S & C Environmental Solutions
http://WWW.TNTBAITS.com
http://www.BBGMARINE.com/
http://www.outdoorproshop.com/?Click=10937
http://www.millerpunchinweight.com/
Re: Miller punch weights
Thanks guys and Cooch for your replies.
One more question, do you guys use them with or without a punch skirt?
Thanks again.
One more question, do you guys use them with or without a punch skirt?
Thanks again.
Re: Miller punch weights
It was hot out there today and the frog bit is heating up getting ready for next week.
These links may help you out.
http://www.westernbass.com/forum/viewto ... =59131&f=2
http://westernbass.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ht=#358139
These links may help you out.
http://www.westernbass.com/forum/viewto ... =59131&f=2
http://westernbass.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ht=#358139
Re: Miller punch weights
I bought the 1.5oz powder coated green miller weight and on the first time out with it I found it to be rather frustrating. I thought the idea of it was to not have to toss it 20 ft in the air but to be able to set it on whatever and shake it til it goes down. It does work that way but on the thick stuff not so well for me. seems the smaller tungsten was easier to get threw and the miller weight is just longer so if it doesnt land right ur sittin on top of the mat. This is no knock on danny or his weights just giving an honest opionion and I hope to learn how to use them the right way I love the idea.
-
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:56 am
Re: Miller punch weights
lil nitro, really its like anything new you have to use it to be good at it, so keep punchin with Dannys weights and you will figure it out, they do work even i can punch with those weights. Good luck mark
Re: Miller punch weights
Go to youtube and look @ some of the vids the will show you how to get it to slip into the mats
AKA Scott Dipman
Thanks to
S & C Environmental Solutions
http://WWW.TNTBAITS.com
http://www.BBGMARINE.com/
http://www.outdoorproshop.com/?Click=10937
http://www.millerpunchinweight.com/
Thanks to
S & C Environmental Solutions
http://WWW.TNTBAITS.com
http://www.BBGMARINE.com/
http://www.outdoorproshop.com/?Click=10937
http://www.millerpunchinweight.com/
Re: Miller punch weights
It was the same with me when I first started trying to shake it through. The problem with me was when I first started I would lift the tip of my rod to high thus bring the weight off the mat and having to start all over again. You have to keep remembering the weight is not connented to the bait. You just want to get the weight in the vertical position with the sharp point just verly touching the mat. This is even harder because you can’t see it, it is nothing but feel. It is like shanking a drop shot without bring the weight off the bottom. The second dilemma is knowning when to release tention on your line to let the weight slip through the mat. You will feel the slights tug (a losing of weight/tension on your rod) and then you let the tip of your rod go forward.
I also have run into the problem when the mat has high leafs and my braid get caught in it and my eye sight is getting poorer. To help me out with this I put an additional bobber stopper (yellow) about a foot and helf to two foot above the bobber stopper to hold the weight from sliding up the line. This second bobber stopper give me visual of what I’m doing. Plus when I do get through the mat it give me some idea the deep beath the mat.
I still use the tungsten set up but as I get better at using the Danny’s weight system I use the tungsten less and less. The main differents between the two is in the tungsten set up the weight and bait are as one and both have to get through the mat. As where in Danny’s weight system only the weigh has to get through the mat and the bait will follow into the same hole.
I also have run into the problem when the mat has high leafs and my braid get caught in it and my eye sight is getting poorer. To help me out with this I put an additional bobber stopper (yellow) about a foot and helf to two foot above the bobber stopper to hold the weight from sliding up the line. This second bobber stopper give me visual of what I’m doing. Plus when I do get through the mat it give me some idea the deep beath the mat.
I still use the tungsten set up but as I get better at using the Danny’s weight system I use the tungsten less and less. The main differents between the two is in the tungsten set up the weight and bait are as one and both have to get through the mat. As where in Danny’s weight system only the weigh has to get through the mat and the bait will follow into the same hole.
Re: Miller punch weights
Does anyone locally carry the Miller Punch Weight?
Re: Miller punch weights
I haven't found a need to use any skirts, between that big weight moving so much water, and that gold flashy finish, they are clocking the Double Wide Beaver alone.bass343 wrote:Thanks guys and Cooch for your replies.
One more question, do you guys use them with or without a punch skirt?
Thanks again.
Re: Miller punch weights
tacklewarehouse has them or you can order them from Danny at millerpunchnweights,com
http://www.powellco.com
www.eyesurrendernow.com
Saulsbury's Earthmovers
Adam Ochoa
www.eyesurrendernow.com
Saulsbury's Earthmovers
Adam Ochoa
Re: Miller punch weights
When tossing it in the air, regardless of what weight you're using, it is crucial to stop the weight before it hits the apex to ensure that it falls straight down... a rainbow flight path won't cut it.
If you do the technique correctly, and couple that with the Miller punch weight, you will make it through even the thickest mats probably 90% of the time or more.
Huge thanks to Jim Moulton for showing me the ropes and subtle techniques during the HBC!
And one other thing Jim taught me is how much the right rod helps with this technique and reduces the wear and tear on the angler... he prefers the Steez (STZ801HFBA) and the Dobyns (805 FLIP/PUNCH) 8' flippin' sticks, and let me try them both after his day on the water. I now own two of the Steez and one of the Dobyns rods and they really do take a lot of the stress off and make it much easier to get 'er done!
Roger
If you do the technique correctly, and couple that with the Miller punch weight, you will make it through even the thickest mats probably 90% of the time or more.
Huge thanks to Jim Moulton for showing me the ropes and subtle techniques during the HBC!
And one other thing Jim taught me is how much the right rod helps with this technique and reduces the wear and tear on the angler... he prefers the Steez (STZ801HFBA) and the Dobyns (805 FLIP/PUNCH) 8' flippin' sticks, and let me try them both after his day on the water. I now own two of the Steez and one of the Dobyns rods and they really do take a lot of the stress off and make it much easier to get 'er done!
Roger
Tight lines forever!
http://www.tunaman.org
*DISCLAIMER* - This post is in no way meant to be offensive. If you feel it is, please re-read then PM me for an explanation if it still offends?
http://www.tunaman.org
*DISCLAIMER* - This post is in no way meant to be offensive. If you feel it is, please re-read then PM me for an explanation if it still offends?
Re: Miller punch weights
why dosent he make one out of tungsten? is it to difficult to machine?
theres a fine line between fishin and standin on a boat like an idiot
Re: Miller punch weights
Thank you Danny for keeping your product here, having been a machinist/CNC programmer for 35 yrs I know 1st hand whats it's like to have your job sent overseasDanny Miller wrote: I chose to keep all my $ and faces I deal with right here in the greatest country in the world, The United States Of America
Danny B
Re: Miller punch weights
[quote="Danny Miller"]. My weights match the hook and bait size to make a hole the same size for them to follow. Will a 7/0 hook and a doublewide beaver go in a hole the size of a pencil? No. I tried. Have you? /quote]
I never thought of hole size, my concern was with that piont getting in the way of a hookset, but i guess thats why you use the 7/0. anyway i picked up a few of em today and will give em shot this weekend, Thanks
I never thought of hole size, my concern was with that piont getting in the way of a hookset, but i guess thats why you use the 7/0. anyway i picked up a few of em today and will give em shot this weekend, Thanks
theres a fine line between fishin and standin on a boat like an idiot
Re: Miller punch weights
That hole on the side will actually HELP in terms of hooksets as it will become a fulcrum for the eye of the hook to use and go up to the side. I am still learning this weight, I really like it for flipping and pitching heavy grass and cheese. I am still working on my Punching technique in general.
Danny thanks for a great bait and being an innovator, not an imitator.
Danny thanks for a great bait and being an innovator, not an imitator.
Re: Miller punch weights
Roger that he is going to drag my netting *** all over the river this weekend looking for that one good one to make me SmugDanny Miller wrote:Thanks Ash
Stop workin on punchin so much and try to figure out what that guy your draggin around is doin with that frog. He aint tellin and it really bothers me that he grins about that pig he boated whenever I see him. I guess I need to get down there and boat a bigger one than his and then he wont be so smug about it. But if mine is bigger I'm most likely gonna be just as smug .
Re: Miller punch weights
I am glad this topic was started, alot of great info. I haven't got around to using your weights yet Danny, but I will when I run across a thick mat.
Seattle, WA
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