Trailer Bunk Boards – Need Advise

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:41 am

I’m changing the Bunk Boards on my boat trailer. The size that is on the boat now is 104” x 6” x 2”. I’m not sure if the wood on the boat now is treaded or not but the screw in boards fell out because the wood was rotted out. I’m looking at three types of boards to use (actually just two types).

1. Regularly wood (I think that was on it before) – (I will not be using this)
2. Treaded wood, that comes in the same size that was on the trailer and would run $10.97 each.
3.a. Choice Dek, (Compound Plastic wood) that comes in size 12’ x 5 ½” x 1 1/8 and cost $21. 97 each. The problem is it is thinner and not as wide as the original Bunk Board.
3b. Trex, (also Compound Plastic wood) that comes in size 12’ x 5” x 1 ¼” and cost $25.57 each. Again not the same size as the original.

I wanted to use the Compound Plastic wood but not sure it will take the load since it is thinner and not as wide. Have any one used the Compound Plastic Wood, does it take the load? What say you guys?

Also, they had two types of staples both Stainless Steel. One was for $10.93 and said not for Marina Use and the other were for Marina use and cost $18.66. Is it not Stainless Steel the same?

One last question – the bolts are the screw in type – I thought lag bolts would be better?

ACRon · Post by **ACRon** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:13 pm

Can't speak to the staples, maybe they were different lengths, gauge, or counts.

I have gone through the bunk issue before and am getting ready again (on another trailer). I used treated lumber. If you have to cross cut it treat the end that you cut to protect it. I looked at the composite wood products. The thinner ones seem like they would sag, I know they require closer supports on decks. The Trexs looked pretty good but I just wasn't convinced it wouldn't sag and might have an issue with support.

So I went with the pressure treat as an upgrade. I used all stainless steel hardware. Personally I hate lag screws so I substitute bolts, counter sink the heads to prevent wear, then t-nut the bottom of the bunk. I use ss-nyloc nuts to hold them on the supports.

Stainless steel staples to hold the carpet in place (on the bottom only). I use exterior carpet mastic and butter the bunk before I wrap the carpet. It seems to last longer than the staples and adds another coat of protection on the wood.

blkdog812 · Post by **blkdog812** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:20 pm

just use regular wood. you can treat it with linseed oil prior to installing and carpeting. you can use the treat wood, but be careful sometimes the chemicals used in the treatment can react to metals ( screws / bolts) and some materials.
as far as using the plastic wood is that it has no lateral support and it requires extra bracing at closer intervals to obtain the same support as real wood

read here about stainless steel and it will answer some questions about the staples.http://www.nickelinstitute.org/index.cf ... /11021.htm
this might explain why marine stuff costs a little more too. your really not talking big dollars for the bunk fix.

changing them is quick if you build them at home, take a cordless drill/ impact and some tools w/ you, go to the lake. float the boat and change them in the parking lot. two guys 20 minutes max and then you can go fishing. you can either use the lags again or thru bolt with carriage bolts

Delaney · Post by **Delaney** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:38 pm

Last time I did this I called Trail-Rite for help, and this is what they said, and this was 7-8 years ago, and they are still OK.
1 Use wet douglas fir, clean and straight with no knots. It will take the shape of the boat.
2 Paint bottom with primer, and do not carpet the bottom, as this will let it dry out better.
3 Use zinc carriage bolts, and of course counter sink.

kane-o · Post by **kane-o** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:56 pm

check out " ultimate bunk boards " there a little expensive, but warranty them for life.. they also let your boat slide off and on the trailer real easy... i have been through so many trailer bunks, the paying for these 1 time would pay for about 5 sets of regular wood bunks, especially by the time it takes to cut and prep the wood, cut and prep the carpet, do the work, etc, etc.... this is a one time thing, just put them on...

blkdog812 · Post by **blkdog812** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:46 am

read up on posts about the ulimate boards. most guys love them. a few of the fiberglass hulled guys said they scratched the h*** out of the bottom of their boats. all said dont unhook the winch until boat is in the water and they are " slicker that goose S*** and the boat will end up on the ramp. sounds like they hold up, but carpeting them might be the answer