graph help needed.....badly

BrandonCook · Post by **BrandonCook** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:52 pm

Guys,
Over a year ago I installed 2 HDS 10s on my boat. The bow graph has always given me issues. It will either work for a few minutes then start flashing really bad, work and then restart, or work completely fine but only 5% of the time will it work fine. I can never have the lighting on Max, I found I could minimalist the flashing by switching the lighting to 6. I also have 2 power poles on the same battery which is my cranking battery. I had a boat shop look at it and they found a bad connection and fixed it but the problem didn't go away. I had a group 24 on there until today when I swapped it out for a group 31. I thought the larger battery might send more power to the bow graph and fix the problem but I was wrong its flashing worse now. All electronics are hooked to the main power auxiliary switch. I read that the graphs should be wired directly to the battery but I haven't tried that yet. My console graph works perfectly fine so I keep thinking the power just isn't getting up to the bow but I obviously can't fix the problem. I Fish the delta mostly so i can still fish without the graph but when i go to lakes i need to be able to see depth!! Guys I need some help with this I just want to be able to enjoy my graphs and focus on catching fish. Ps it's not the graph because I put the other one up there with the same problem. Please help!

Catmantwo · Post by **Catmantwo** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:59 pm

Definitely a wiring problem. Based on the age of the boat, most boat wiring "degrades" over time (some times less than 2-3 yrs). Most boat manufactures do not use "tinned" wiring to help degradation due to corrosion.

You need to run a little larger grade wire (preferably tinned) direct from the graph to the battery to prevent this problem. Battery size does not provide improve voltage, just makes it last longer.

That plus the newer graphs require a larger minimum voltage is most likely you see this problem after your graph upgrades.

See this line regarding tinned wire (for marine applications):
http://www.arcorelectronics.com/resourc ... pper-wire/

philip garcia · Post by **philip garcia** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 7:51 am

Both graphs are identical so why don't you just switch the head units and see if your problem switches if the front graph goes to the console and flashes then you know it's your graph if your console graph goes to the bow and doesn't flash or have a problem then you know for sure it's the graph.

Catmantwo · Post by **Catmantwo** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 10:34 am

Phil
In his last sentence, he said he already did that and the problem stayed at the front.

philip garcia · Post by **philip garcia** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:37 pm

Sorry I just noticed that.

BrandonCook · Post by **BrandonCook** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 7:01 pm

I think I need to add a bigger gauge wire. I forgot to add that when I start up the big motor the flashing goes away. My buddy at work was thinking that when the big motor is running it create more voltage to the front graph and fixes the problem. The wire in the boat was for an old tiny black and white graph, so I think the hds 10 overloads the wire. I think the console graph works because it's a shorter distance of wire that volts have to travel? I don't even know if that is even how it works but it makes sense to me! Anyone think switching to a larger Guage wire will transfer more voltage up to the bow?

Catmantwo · Post by **Catmantwo** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 8:35 pm

By going from the graph straight to the battery it will also eliminate all the resistance that you have with any "junctions/splices" from the front to the console/master switch. As I mentioned in my previous post you should think about tinned wire (to prevent this in the future). 16gauge tinned wire will eliminate the problem, you will probably see 1 - 2+ volt increase at the graph from what you have now.

Measure your voltage at the battery and then check it at the power supply to the graph - battery should be about 12.9 at rest, you are probably seeing 11 (or less) at the graph now. Once you add in anything turned on at the console, it will be even less.

BrandonCook · Post by **BrandonCook** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:24 pm

If I run directly to the battery to I need a breaker in case it wasn't to blow?!

Catmantwo · Post by **Catmantwo** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 11:11 am

No need for a circuit breaker. Your graph should have an inline fuse already in the power cord supplied from the manufacture. The only good reason for a circuit breaker would be to prevent battery drawdown when the boat is not in use. If you currently have a circuit breaker at the battery, you can attach to that. Another option would be to put a on/off toggle switch at the bow and connect to that (overkill, but if you are worried about it).

Mitch · Post by **Mitch** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 1:45 pm

99% sure your problem is in the wiring. The newer graph MUST be wired DIRECTLY to the battery. They require 12v constant. That's why when you start the motor it works fine, it's getting 13.5v. ALSO, do install a fuse link inline with the Power wire(red).

mark poulson · Post by **mark poulson** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:23 pm

That is another reason to use a deep cycle battery for your cranking battery.

BrandonCook · Post by **BrandonCook** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 7:35 pm

Problem solved!!! I hard wired the graphs directly to the battery. Left the graphs on for about 10 minutes with no flashing! Only thing that sucks is when I was done and all proud of myself my neighbor noticed oil on the ground under the motor

. Looks like a tiny leak coming from inside the cowling....if it's not one thing it's another...thanks for your help with the graphs now on to an oil leak....

Catmantwo · Post by **Catmantwo** » Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:31 am

First thing to check on the oil leak:
Remove cowling and check the oil reserve tank by the motor. It has a screw on cap (and needs to be pressurized). Check for any oil near this and then verify that the screw on top is "very" tight. If it's tight and no oil residue near it, then check all hoses/connections going into it and all the connections on both ends going out of it for any residue).

Depending how old your boat is (10 years or more), check for any cracks in all hoses both in and out of that pump as well.

If the oil was directly under the motor/skeg it might be overflow from the lower unit. check that both screws are tight as well. This is especially try if you recently had the lower unit serviced recently. Sometimes when it gets really hot out, and the oil/grease in the LU was "full" there may be leakage due to expansion.