Guys,
I've got a 1990 ranger/yamaha that the steering cables are almost frozen. The mechanic says the motor needs to be removed to get the old cables out. This is a flat rack system, I believe.
My question is, instead of removing the motor, cant you just cut the end of the cables next to the motor and remove them by pulling from the drivers console. I know that this wont work for some reason or these guys would have figured this out a long time ago.
I am not interested in hydraulic steering. Just replacing the old cables with new ones.
Cant the new cables be threaded in through the console and attached to the motor and fit in the rack under the console?
I'd appreciate input from those in the know.
Thanks,
Phil Thunen
replacing steering cables on 150 yamaha/ranger
-
Gator
Re: replacing steering cables on 150 yamaha/ranger
Nope - The motor has to come off. My dad just had his replaced on his Pro-V and there is no way to do it without removing the motor.
Tight Lines!!
Gator
Tight Lines!!
Gator
-
Glenn Abuelhaj
A little trick
Your motor doesn't have to come completely off. You still have to take the bolts out but what I did was support the OB with a chain hanging from the rafters on the engine loop and took all but one bolt out. By backing out this one bolt, slowly, you can angle the engine and work the cables in. By doing this, you can angle the tubes to get the cables out/in. Once the cables are in, button everything up and use a good silicon. You can also disconnect the rack under the console and work the set out that way. Or, do as you said above....
Run TWO pull ropes, NOT just one. The gunnels are tight and you'll need to off-set the cables when running the new ones. Use one rope for each cable. Pull and install the cables first, then install your helm and rack under the dash.
But, before doing all that, your tilt tube is full of crud and rust. Goto WalMart and get a shotgun cleaning kit and remove the steering rods as far back as possible from the tubes and use the cleaning rod to scrape all that rust/crud out. See if you can salvage what you got...
You can try eBay for new cables as they're ~ $400 now! Just last year, they were $300!!
AND, use only OIL from now on! DO NOT USE GREASE!! This is what created your problem in the first place.
Good luck!
Run TWO pull ropes, NOT just one. The gunnels are tight and you'll need to off-set the cables when running the new ones. Use one rope for each cable. Pull and install the cables first, then install your helm and rack under the dash.
But, before doing all that, your tilt tube is full of crud and rust. Goto WalMart and get a shotgun cleaning kit and remove the steering rods as far back as possible from the tubes and use the cleaning rod to scrape all that rust/crud out. See if you can salvage what you got...
You can try eBay for new cables as they're ~ $400 now! Just last year, they were $300!!
AND, use only OIL from now on! DO NOT USE GREASE!! This is what created your problem in the first place.
Good luck!
-
Ted from Texas
Re: replacing steering cables on 150 yamaha/ranger
> Guys,
> I've got a 1990 ranger/yamaha that the
> steering cables are almost frozen. The
> mechanic says the motor needs to be removed
> to get the old cables out. This is a flat
> rack system, I believe.
> My question is, instead of removing the
> motor, cant you just cut the end of the
> cables next to the motor and remove them by
> pulling from the drivers console. I know
> that this wont work for some reason or these
> guys would have figured this out a long time
> ago.
> I am not interested in hydraulic steering.
> Just replacing the old cables with new ones.
> Cant the new cables be threaded in through
> the console and attached to the motor and
> fit in the rack under the console?
> I'd appreciate input from those in the know.
> Thanks,
> Phil Thunen
Phil
I have a 1990 Ranger 363v w/a 150 pro V
I replaced the cables a few years ago by unbolting
them at the engine,removing the rack asm etc from
under the dash. You then tape the cable ends together at the engine and pull the whole mess out.
My friend and I did it pretty easy(this was his second time) I got a new set from BassPro...same length and re-taped the to the rope
and pulled them back to the engine.
I been using them for three years no pblms.
Good Luck
Ted from Texas
> I've got a 1990 ranger/yamaha that the
> steering cables are almost frozen. The
> mechanic says the motor needs to be removed
> to get the old cables out. This is a flat
> rack system, I believe.
> My question is, instead of removing the
> motor, cant you just cut the end of the
> cables next to the motor and remove them by
> pulling from the drivers console. I know
> that this wont work for some reason or these
> guys would have figured this out a long time
> ago.
> I am not interested in hydraulic steering.
> Just replacing the old cables with new ones.
> Cant the new cables be threaded in through
> the console and attached to the motor and
> fit in the rack under the console?
> I'd appreciate input from those in the know.
> Thanks,
> Phil Thunen
Phil
I have a 1990 Ranger 363v w/a 150 pro V
I replaced the cables a few years ago by unbolting
them at the engine,removing the rack asm etc from
under the dash. You then tape the cable ends together at the engine and pull the whole mess out.
My friend and I did it pretty easy(this was his second time) I got a new set from BassPro...same length and re-taped the to the rope
and pulled them back to the engine.
I been using them for three years no pblms.
Good Luck
Ted from Texas
-
Richard
Re: A little trick
> But, before doing all that, your tilt tube
> is full of crud and rust. Goto WalMart and
> get a shotgun cleaning kit and remove the
> steering rods as far back as possible from
> the tubes and use the cleaning rod to scrape
> all that rust/crud out. See if you can
> salvage what you got...
Had to remove the motor on mine too, and I'll agree that it's critical you remove all that rust and corrosion. I took a wood dowel and and stapled one of those green 3M sanding pads to it.
Using my electric drill I ran that dowel/pad in and out until the inside surface was bright clean metal. It's been three years now and I can still
turn the steering wheel with one finger.
> is full of crud and rust. Goto WalMart and
> get a shotgun cleaning kit and remove the
> steering rods as far back as possible from
> the tubes and use the cleaning rod to scrape
> all that rust/crud out. See if you can
> salvage what you got...
Had to remove the motor on mine too, and I'll agree that it's critical you remove all that rust and corrosion. I took a wood dowel and and stapled one of those green 3M sanding pads to it.
Using my electric drill I ran that dowel/pad in and out until the inside surface was bright clean metal. It's been three years now and I can still
turn the steering wheel with one finger.
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