Anyone wanna buy ...(rant)

Brian D. · Post by **Brian D.** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:40 am

a 2004 Ford F150?

Just got a dealer estimate for $970 for front brakes and new rotors. I have only 56K miles. This is my second set brakes, the first set was at 28K where I needed brakes and the rotors cut ($450). The service guy said this is normal for trucks. So, based on this logic and service pattern, I'm due for another big brake job bill in another 25k miles.

Come on now! What ever happened to the slogan Ford Tough?!

Arrrggggggggggggggg. Do Chevy's or Toyota's have the same issue?

Lance · Post by **Lance** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:05 am

Not to pour salt into any wounds Brian but I got my first brake job on my Tundra at 87,000. Tundra's are great trucks

big_gorilla · Post by **big_gorilla** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:07 am

I've gone through the same thing. The problem with the new brakes is their softer but unfortunately the don't last as long.

I have replaced my rotors once. I went after market to see how they would be and so far it's been good except for my brakes are starting the squeak.

A buddy of mine has a F150 Supercrew like mine and he's had no issues.

I had an Expedition before my truck and I never had issues with those brakes.

Rob Cummings · Post by **Rob Cummings** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:13 am

If you lived closer I'd do it for you in turn for some fishin tips and save you the labor cost.

DeltaBound · Post by **DeltaBound** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:16 am

Yep, them fords are bad on brakes

.

DAKINE198 · Post by **DAKINE198** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:32 am

I bet you gas with the right and brake with the left

This aint NASCAR buddy.

Nlvbassin · Post by **Nlvbassin** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:48 am

Yup thats a ford tow vechile

engineeringBASS · Post by **engineeringBASS** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:58 am

i have a chevy 1500 and i went over 100k on my first set of brakes. The rotors were grooved but only needed a turn.

I know the Fords have brake issues and the Dodge trucks too.

Good luck. Also.....i do my own brakes and the cost is only 150-200 max.! Get some tools!

DB · Post by DB » Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:03 pm

First off, you should not take it to a dealer, unless you want to pay about double for the service...

What about Joe S. he would do it for you.

DB

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:32 pm

Lance wrote:Not to pour salt into any wounds Brian but I got my first brake job on my Tundra at 87,000. Tundra's are great trucks

Thats only because you cant tow anything heavy enough with a toyota to wear out the brakes.

mike rooke · Post by **mike rooke** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:57 pm

102,000 on my f350 still have 70% of brakes most are towing miles wife has 100,000 on her truck orig brakes, sounds like operator err.

Matt M. · Post by **Matt M.** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:25 pm

Maybe you need to slow down a bit!

Matt

Brian D. wrote:a 2004 Ford F150?

Just got a dealer estimate for $970 for front brakes and new rotors. I have only 56K miles. This is my second set brakes, the first set was at 28K where I needed brakes and the rotors cut ($450). The service guy said this is normal for trucks. So, based on this logic and service pattern, I'm due for another big brake job bill in another 25k miles.

Come on now! What ever happened to the slogan Ford Tough?!

Arrrggggggggggggggg. Do Chevy's or Toyota's have the same issue?

DL · Post by DL » Thu Jun 14, 2007 4:45 pm

I second that! I have 135,000 miles on my silverado and I have over 50% left on them... All that being said, I'd rather push a chevy than drive a ford!

DAKINE198 · Post by **DAKINE198** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:33 pm

Only cause a chevy cant put out enough horsepower to make hard work for the brakes

M. Warner · Post by **M. Warner** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:11 pm

I have a z71 silverado with 63000 on it, got my breaks checked out the other day while getting the oil changed and i still have 70% left.

Brian D. · Post by **Brian D.** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:45 pm

..... in my wallet!

I got out of the dealership and I'm $740 into a new set of brakes and rotors and other assorted parts. I gave them permission to use non-OEM parts to bring the cost down. After reading the other points in this thread, it looks like I should:

A. consider getting a different tow vehicle
B. get a heavy duty (F-250) truck with better parts/brakes
C. slow down (stupid LA traffic)
D. deal with it since its a light duty truck.

- or -

E. move to Clear Lake (heheheheh )

DAKINE198 · Post by **DAKINE198** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:48 pm

Hey Brian, When you get close to 25k give me a call for your next brake job.

Gator · Post by **Gator** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:12 pm

Move to Clearlake - it'll save you on Brakes!!

Seriously, I have an F-150 Supercrew that I did brakes on myself about 3 months ago - Total cost of all brakes and new front rotors (screw turning them, get new ones) was about $250. Get your shop manual out and do em yourself!! Save you a TON of money. Or next time you need em, drive to the Sacramento area, Give me a $100 + the cost of parts and I'll do the job, then we'll fish for a couple of days and you can drive home. Will still probably be cheaper than the dealer!!

Garrett Mercer · Post by **Garrett Mercer** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:22 pm

I have 70k on my 02 F-150 (which is for sale), and replaced the Front and Rears each once (fronts at 40k rears at 60k) both were just pads and machined rotors, and last time checked at 65k both still had 60% left..... I have towed since day 1 on that truck... I just bought a new 250 diesel, and that is the WORLD of difference all around, breaks, power, weight, the truck doesnt get pushed around at all.... definately the larger truck is better for a lot of towing.

Rob Cummings · Post by **Rob Cummings** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 6:12 am

That is one damn expensive brake job!!! Look me up next time, and for any other local fishermen, I get about a 50 - 60% military discount at Pepboys on most parts so I can save you a big chunk of change right there. If you need someone to do the work, I actually teach brakes so I can save you on some expensive labor costs too. I can even bring you in to the shop on a weekend or evening and show you how it's done.

MCSPIN · Post by **MCSPIN** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 8:36 am

I have a Chevy 3500 chew cab duel with a large Lance camper and I tow my boat. I have 63,000 miles on the same breakes.

Gary

Brian D. · Post by **Brian D.** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 8:55 am

Rob and Lee. I will definitely give you a shout.

One thing I found interesting ... the mechanic said my brakes were down to 5% and the rotors were warped. This explains the intense front-end vibration.

Brakes I can see wearing, but how the heck can rotors get warped? I don't drive any faster than most (keeping up with traffic) and pull my boat nearly every weekend just like most everyone here with an occasional long trip up north or to the desert.

Could it be LA traffic, Ortega Highway, heavy foot-itis?

Gator · Post by **Gator** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:16 am

(Stolen from a car maintenance website - I knew some of the reasons but this sums it up pretty well)

The brake rotor can become "warped" or have an uneven or high spot on the surface due to normal wear and tear. It can also warp because of expansion and contraction of the metal disc rotor due to driving through a puddle of water on the exit ramp after a long trip on the freeway then applying the brakes, or due to severely worn out brake pads that have been grinding metal to metal on the brake rotor, thus cutting grooves in the rotor surface.

I would add to this - if you have any shallow ramps where you could possibly get the front wheels in the water while launching after a long trip, that could do it as well.

DanWarme · Post by **DanWarme** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:31 am

Have very similar experiences with Fords.

My "Exploder" lost it's first set of brakes in a major meltdown just past warrenty at 37K miles. (It was as I pulled my boat out of the water to get to the 1st partner pairing meeting at the vegas Open many years ago. Made that whole evening extra special) That was the best it ever did. From then on it was new brakes and rotors every 15K miles or so.

My Chevy Tahoe has 209 K on it and has been a great vehicle. Just redid the front brakes; replaced pads and a rotor. Less than $75 for parts and we were done in less than 2 hrs. I don't recall how many miles I got on the last set of brakes but I figure if its been so long you can't remember, you must be doing OK.

Older, Wiser, Cheaper. lol

Munsey · Post by **Munsey** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:08 am

I have over 120,000 miles on my Avalache still have the original brakes.

Having never owned or want to own a ford here is just another reason.
Run don't walk to your nearest Chevy Dealer.
Good luck.

Mike Munson

Go Angels beat them Dodgers tonight

RichB · Post by **RichB** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:38 pm

My Chevey Tahoe is at 92,000 miles...I have had no issues. Just change oil and filter every 3000 miles...New brake pads at 70K.

fishinman · Post by **fishinman** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:46 pm

call autozone and find out how much new rotors and shoes with a liftime warrenty will cost. add 2.5 hours of your time some gojo for your dirty hands and 2 hand tools, then you can go on a free 2 day tuna trip out of Sandiego.

drew · Post by **drew** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 1:46 pm

Do you drive in over drive around town? I believe in the Fords you can drive in 3 instead of OD or D and the trans will shift up down but not into top gear. This will allow some extra engine braking.

My Chevy had a tow button that would prevent it from shifting into OD and also altered the shift pattern for more engine braking. I recommend not turning your worn rotors and replace them with new. It might be a good idea if you like the truck other then the brake issues to learn how to service them yourself. I imagine you can diy for half the cost.

Scott Robertson · Post by **Scott Robertson** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:23 pm

Brian I had the same problem with my Ranger and my explorer ( my mechanic called the explorer the exploder) no warning tracks on those breaks. that why switched to chevy and i have been very happy with them. Scott

Jake Ripley · Post by **Jake Ripley** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:01 pm

Brian D, no worries. When you bought your truck you just saw a nice new truck sitting on a car lot and you wanted it. How did you know you would have to do brakes every year? The sales man won't tell you. I was an ASE certified mechanic for 5 years and vehicles have all changed alot in that time. Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan,and european jobs, they all have their drawbacks. I will say that the posts that are telling you to stay away from the dealer, I will agree with. I do all of my own maintenence (I can without usage of a shop) on my own vehicles because the people I used to work with (which had no natural mechanical abillities) all work at dealerships now and I just don't trust dealerships. If you can find a good independent garage or friend to do your work I would go that route (IMAO). There are good dealerships out there but they mostly charge by flat rates and an independent garage will help you out to keep you coming to them. Plus you will usually be able to talk to the person that actually worked on your vehicle.

Rob Cummings, you must be stationed at the AF base in mugu. My friends dad retired as a Col. from there a few years ago. Col. Resitvo is his name. He was actually going to get me a job on the base but I took a job at Raytheon instead. If you ever need a back seater I'm right here in the Carpinteria, I would gladly pay gas fees to fish from a boat.

ddavis · Post by **ddavis** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:01 pm

I have a 2001 Dodge Quad Cab and I'm doing good to get 15000 out of a set of pads and 30000 out of the rotors. $500.00-$800.00 every few months at the dealer. I feel your pain! I've tried using cheaper pads with a lifetime warranty and replacing them myself, but they wear out even quicker and make alot of noise.

DAKINE198 · Post by **DAKINE198** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:59 pm

I think thats just wrong there is nothing wrong with taking your vehicle to the dealer. No1 becuase they have all the latest info (parts and service bulletins) on your vehicle, Factory reps and training. Sure idependents are good too and with all the latest software availible to IRF's (independent repair facilities) they can do most jobs competently. If you do take it a an independent, take it to one who specializes in ford for example or gm vehicles. Usually they are former techs who have ventured out into the free enterprise markets. ASE alone should not be the only standard of measure, cause there are some techs out there who still don't know SH**. Both dealer and IRF's. Thank God none of them work for me

ddavis · Post by **ddavis** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:27 am

replaced rotors & pads yesterday, 1.5 hours and $175.00. No problem! Maybe replacing the rotors everytime is the ticket. My buddy just found rotors for $65.00 (pair) At that price, why not replace them rather than have them turned. Can anyone recommend a good pad? I'm still looking for one that I can get decent mileage out of.

Kelly Ripa · Post by **Kelly Ripa** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:31 am

I picked up my boat and brought it to Ojai on Friday and I'm hearing something in the front....Cracked rotor the other needs to be replaced ( no life left ) got the back drums turned and new pads all around. It's a 4-wheel extra cab....cost $ 840 not bad...add the $600 I just spent on the master cylinder and brakes in the VW and I'm going to have to started eat'n a few green fish in the future.

DougH · Post by **DougH** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:28 am

Just install a "jake brake" on your diesel engine and us it to save your real brakes.

Oh.. not a diesel? Well then it's not really a tow vehicle then...

Cummins baby!

JohNNy Utah · Post by **JohNNy Utah** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:48 pm

Dude, what are you doing, riding your brakes? And that service guy is full of crap. I have 60,000 on my 03' Ford and have no problem.

DB · Post by DB » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:59 am

When you replace the front rotors make sure you get good ones, not the cheapest Auto Zone, etc.. rotors. You can get rotors real cheap, but the cheap ones will heat up real quick and cause dangerous braking conditions. I once replaced my rotors on my old chevy with the cheaper ones and while traveling down the grapevine, heading north, they overheated under normal braking conditions and the whole truck shook violently when I had to even apply light brake pressure. Thank God I didn't have to do any suddden slowing or it wouldn't have happened! Very scary... From now on I use "factory rotors" when I have to change them out. Don't skimp on your brake parts, they are too important!

Just my opinion.

Bob

CN · Post by CN » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:53 pm

The question I ask are you towing alot or not.The differance between a 1/2 ton and 3/4 is quit alot.

My last truck was Chevy 3/4 ton Silverado.Very nice truck never had a problem other than normal maintanance.

I now have a 2006 Ford super duty.Went out and bought a 4x4 with the Turbo Power Stroke diesel.Guess it's a mid life crisis thing I'll probably never put it in four wheel drive.

The Chevy was such a smoother ride yet could not match the Ford for towability yet when your in the Ford believe me you know your in a truck.I dont think any of the 1/2 ton's are are going to last if you use them as a truck.

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