I have to replace my trailer bunks for my 2008 tracker TXW175.. Looking for something in the area or is it easier for me to just get pressure treated wood and carpet?
Set'Em Good
Were to get new trailer bunks?
- set'em good
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- Location: San Jose, CA
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Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
California Trailer Works. (916)-381-7619. The dude does great work and a new set is about 100 bucks.
Mike
Mike
Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
Calif Trailer works is in Sacramento and the guys who runs it use to work at another trailer place here but has since closed. They do good work and the address is 6486 Florin-Perkins Rd. Check with Boat Master in Livermore as they might be able to help you and it's closer to San Jose to save you driving time.
Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
anyone in so. cal do these ?
Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
$100 is a good price – I did my own and maybe spent about $75 plus the work doing it.

Re: Recarpet Only?
I had my '06 BassCat out of the water for a few days recently while at Clear Lake so I was able to look the trailer over pretty closely. The carpeting on the bunks is pretty worked... especially the back 6-12". But the wood underneath looks to be in pretty good shape.
This may be a dumb/no brainer question but is it OK to just replace the carpeting?
This may be a dumb/no brainer question but is it OK to just replace the carpeting?
Greg
Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
Marty is correct as it's not worth it by doing it yourself. You'll proably need a 10' 2x4 or a least a 8' 2x4. The carpet comes in 8' width so you'll have to buy enough to cover the 2x4 to over lap it and nail it down. You don't want to use two separate piece of carpet for the bunk.
Gred D.
06 isn't too old on the wood and shouldn't be bad shape and you could just replace the carpet. But since the old bunk is off, I would just replace the whole thing and not wory about dry rot on the bunk.
Gred D.
06 isn't too old on the wood and shouldn't be bad shape and you could just replace the carpet. But since the old bunk is off, I would just replace the whole thing and not wory about dry rot on the bunk.
Re: Were to get new trailer bunks?
This is from a post I made in Mar 2011!
Re: Trailer Maintenance
by Marty » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:55 pm
I just change my Bunker Boards on my trailer and it was not that hard.
I used treaded wood that cost $10.97 each that came in 12 foot lengths. What came off my trailer (104” x 6” x 2”). I had to cut and on the cut end I put preservative (a product called “Black Flag” that cost $8.07) I was thinking about using Choice Dek or Trex (Compound Plastic wood) but it was recommended not to use because in only came in 1 1/8” or 1 ¼” and would not support the boat when on the trailer. I got the treaded wood at Lowe’s and I inspected each to make sure they were flat and no knots.
The carpet I pick up at Inland Marine for $17.99 a roll, you will need two rolls. It comes in 12” by 12’. If your width is 6 inches, it works real good. You don’t want to over lap the carpet under the Bunker Boards. Leave a gap, this way the wood is exposed to air and help drain the water and dry.
I used Stainless Steel Stapes that cost $18.66, they were recommended for marine use. Plus I had to buy a staple gun – the stapes did not fit the one I had. Other $14.79. There was some Stainless Steel Stapes that cost $10.93 but I went with the more costly after reading this link – thanks “blkdog812”
http://www.nickelinstitute.org/index.cf ... /11021.htm
When putting the carpet on the boards I used some contact glue that I had – I glued the edges of the carpet and wood to hold while I stapled. I wish I also glued the top of the board also – when I was done in seem a little lose – 1/16 flap between the carpet and the board.
The hard part is cutting the end of the carpet to make it fit real tight. Don’t worry if you leave a gap at the corners it will just help drain the water. I did double the carpet over at the ends and used Stainless Steel Screws with washer (4 each on each end) that cost $4.96. I just did not think the stapes would do it.
I was going to use carriage bolts but when with the same type of self tapping bolt that came off but I put lock washer. I used again Stainless Steel that cost about $6.00 (I lost the receipt).
I build the Bunker Boards in about 2 hours on Thursday night and when to Russo’s on Friday (I figure the parking lot would not be full on Friday). I replace the Bunker Boards by myself but you will need some C-clamps to hold the Bunker Boards while you put in the bolts. Measure and Measure again. Measure from the support in the back of the trailer (mine was 4 inches) and measure from the support in front of the trailer (mine was 9 inches).
Believe it or not the hardest part was screwing in the self tapping bolt – I had my drill but forgot the drill bit to put a pilot hole.
The total cost was $102.23 plus taxes. You can read the recommendations on this link. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64471
Good luck either way you go!
Re: Trailer Maintenance
by Marty » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:55 pm
I just change my Bunker Boards on my trailer and it was not that hard.
I used treaded wood that cost $10.97 each that came in 12 foot lengths. What came off my trailer (104” x 6” x 2”). I had to cut and on the cut end I put preservative (a product called “Black Flag” that cost $8.07) I was thinking about using Choice Dek or Trex (Compound Plastic wood) but it was recommended not to use because in only came in 1 1/8” or 1 ¼” and would not support the boat when on the trailer. I got the treaded wood at Lowe’s and I inspected each to make sure they were flat and no knots.
The carpet I pick up at Inland Marine for $17.99 a roll, you will need two rolls. It comes in 12” by 12’. If your width is 6 inches, it works real good. You don’t want to over lap the carpet under the Bunker Boards. Leave a gap, this way the wood is exposed to air and help drain the water and dry.
I used Stainless Steel Stapes that cost $18.66, they were recommended for marine use. Plus I had to buy a staple gun – the stapes did not fit the one I had. Other $14.79. There was some Stainless Steel Stapes that cost $10.93 but I went with the more costly after reading this link – thanks “blkdog812”
http://www.nickelinstitute.org/index.cf ... /11021.htm
When putting the carpet on the boards I used some contact glue that I had – I glued the edges of the carpet and wood to hold while I stapled. I wish I also glued the top of the board also – when I was done in seem a little lose – 1/16 flap between the carpet and the board.
The hard part is cutting the end of the carpet to make it fit real tight. Don’t worry if you leave a gap at the corners it will just help drain the water. I did double the carpet over at the ends and used Stainless Steel Screws with washer (4 each on each end) that cost $4.96. I just did not think the stapes would do it.
I was going to use carriage bolts but when with the same type of self tapping bolt that came off but I put lock washer. I used again Stainless Steel that cost about $6.00 (I lost the receipt).
I build the Bunker Boards in about 2 hours on Thursday night and when to Russo’s on Friday (I figure the parking lot would not be full on Friday). I replace the Bunker Boards by myself but you will need some C-clamps to hold the Bunker Boards while you put in the bolts. Measure and Measure again. Measure from the support in the back of the trailer (mine was 4 inches) and measure from the support in front of the trailer (mine was 9 inches).
Believe it or not the hardest part was screwing in the self tapping bolt – I had my drill but forgot the drill bit to put a pilot hole.
The total cost was $102.23 plus taxes. You can read the recommendations on this link. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64471
Good luck either way you go!

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