New trolling motor wiring

[Jrfish]

I have a begginers electrical question. I just got a new minnkota 24volt 70lb thrust trolling motor for my tracker. It recomends a 50amp fuse. The only 50 amp fuses I have seen are made by a company called maxi fuse and they are attached to the wiring by a rubber square looking device called a fuse holder, which I assume is like a bus. Am I on the right track or do any of you minnkota owners have any suggestions. Also I think my live well runs off the trolling batteries, and the previous trolling motor was a 12volt with one battery. If I hook the livewell to the 24volt system will I blow the fuses for the bildge pumps or does it matter. Let me have it, with any tips or insights, I am new to a motor this powerful, I am just tired of loosing to the delta tide and wind with 40lbs of thrust.
Thanks,
Tim

[troutnut]

either get this:

automatic reset 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true


or this: (which is what I have and most everyone else does also)

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true


Install the circuit breaker as close to the battery as you can. Fuses and circuit breakers ALWAYS go on the POSITIVE + side.

If you are upgrading from a 12 volt system, make sure you upgrade the wire size, and use marine grade wiring. Don't cheat and use automotive or cheap Home Depot wire. The increased load of the 24 volt system may heat up the old wire and cause a short or a fire. Fire in a boat SUCKS! You can use the old wire to pull new 6 gauge wire from the battery to the trolling motor in the front of the boat. You need to pull a + and a ground wire.

You want your TM to be the only thing running off the deep cycle batteries.

Everything else runs off the starter battery for the big motor. The livewell uses very little current. (2 amps~) So do the lights, bilge, radios...

If you run ANYTHING on the 24 volt system other than the Trolling motor, you will smoke that fuse for that "appliance" and maybe the whatever it is too. Expensive way to buy a boat is to short out all your electricals and burn up your boat in a fire.

I would pull an extra 14 gauge red and black wire too for your bow mounted 12 volt depth finder. Might as well have clean power for that too. Solder in fuse holder http://www.bepmarine.com/products/hdbfh_lg.jpg (available at any marine store like West Marine) and put in a proper size fuse. Clean power without interference is important.

There is a good book you can get at West Marine or Amazon called "Understanding Boat Wiring" and it will help.

Here is the Standard Marine Wire Code Table:

Red -Constant Hot
Black- Ground
Purple- Key-on Power
Yellow/Red- Neutral Safety
Tan- Water Temperature or Overheat sensor to warning horn
Dark Blue- Gauge Lighting
Pink- Fuel Sender
Gray -Tachometer
Light Blue- Oil Pressure
Brown/White- Trim Indicator
Brown- Bilge Pump
Green/White- Trim Down
Blue/White- Trim Up
Green/Orange- Independent Tilt Down
Blue/Orange- Independent Tilt Up
Yellow/Black- Choke Circuit
Yellow/Red- Starting Circuit
Black/Yellow- Ignition Cut-off/kill switch


One more piece of advice, I run smaller fuses than usually found in boats and carry spares. For example, my radio came with a 5 amp fuse, and I use a 3 amp fast blow fuse. If the wiring shorts out, it takes less of a short to blow the fuse, saving the expensive electrical device. most people go the other way and just throw a 25 amp special in there, and then complain when their electronics go up in flames. Fuses are CHEAP! Just carry spares. Less chance of having to use your fire extinguisher that way!