Cranking Stick

[L Dub]

Looking into getting another one to pair with my fiberglass rod (I use for rip baits). The F-glass rod is the diawa gary klein cranking model.

I mostly fish the Delta and am wondering what you guys are using and why? Graphite v. Fiberglass? I think I would be using the new one for lipless cranks, speed-traps and spinner baits. Should I keep using my Diawa for all of these?

What should I be looking at in terms of needs? I like the Diawa, but it's glass. I was thinking about getting either a graphite or composite, but wanted to check you guys' opinions first.

thanks!

[RipnRog]

I used to is a glass rod for cranking and ripping.... I have since switch to graphite rods. There are a lot of good ones on the market as I am sure you will here. I would take a look at the Phenix x-10 it is the lightest rod youwill find out on the market and it is awsome.

if you like a 7 foot 6 inch model then check out the Phenix X-12


Rodger

[DL]

I like to use the composite rod made my Kistler. The tip section is glass and the rest is graphite. Its a super light rod and the action is perfect for throwing lipless cranks and medium diving baits. There are a few others at the link below, check 'em out.

http://www.kistlerrods.com/c/KR/mt-cran ... -rods.html

[L Dub]

Lol... those were the first two I looked at. I have a kistler Helium LTX which is an awesome rod and I was just reading the TT reviews for the pheonix. (x-10)

What's the biggest difference I should expect between f-glass, composite and graphite? I think that the f-glass rod may be too 'whippy' (not to be confused with wimpy).

[elfish16]

I have to say that I've lost a lot of fish on composite and graphite rods. Since switching to glass for cranks and ripping I've hardly lost a thing. You don't have to set the hook and you just WIND the fish in....no reason to pump or anything! The 8-12lbers I was losing on the graphite and composite rods are in the boat now days!

My dad and I religiously use the crankbait and we can say from out tournament results that glass is key...

We prefer the Skeet Reese Glass cranking rods...super soft rods yet enough backbone to land those donkeys!

this is my opinion...and I know a lot that agree the glass is a great choice.

Eric

[Vince Borges]

L Dub, the benifits that you get with a glass rod are the soft tip. Not only for hook setting but the soft tip allows the crankbait to have more motion then with a graphite rod. This is great for the action of the bait. However, F-glass is not what I prefer when trying to fish grass. The Parobolic bend tends to make it harder, and more fatiguing, to rip your bait through the grass. The benifits of graphite is you get amaizing feel of what the bait is doing. You have a stronger backbone which makes it easier to rip from grass. Glass is heavier in weight then graphite. so each has its plus's and minus's. The benifits of a composite rod like the X10 is you have the softness of a glass tip with the strength and sensitivity of a graphite butt section. But not all composits are equal. when you blend two different materials you get a weak spot. Most composits blend in about 6". The X10 blends at about 1.5 feet, making a much much stronger rod. That is partly why it was the editors choice at TT. http://tackletour.com/reviewphenixx10.html If you have any questions or would like to see an X10 shoot me an e-mail and let me know what area you are in and I will try and get one in your hands.

Vince Borges

[DerekR]

Yo - L Dub. Good fishing with you Saturday.

As much as I love my Kistler 7' Composite for cranking BDS 4 and smaller crank baits, I find it too soft for rippin' and too much work for pulling LVRs through the weeds. You can try the Kistler next time we hook up if you are interested.

At 5'10", I prefer no more than 7' for ripping and like the Dobyns 704CB graphite.

I got my Dobyns 805CB for DD22s but started using it for LVRs and love it. Casts a mile and has the power to rip it through the Delta weeds without donating a $15 Lucky Craft.

[L Dub]

Thanks everyone for the responses so far.

BIG THANKS to DerekR for letting me ride with him on Sat. He's a good man and found some good spots for us.

-Derek, I'll definitely have to try throwing it some next time. You know I love my Kistler.



Vince - After reading the reviews on TT, I would really like to try out a composite. I'm in SF, but usually fish out of Bethel Island and surrounding areas.

Question is: Do I really need another rod or am I just being a tackle-ho? I think the answer to both is YES.

[Vince Borges]

LOL your correct. Yes and Yes. If you want stop by Hi's, They just got there shipment of rods in and I believe they have both the X10 and X12 the only diff is the X12 is 7'6". I myself like the X12 for longer casts, But thats more of a lake thing than a Delta thing.

Vince

[GOTBASS]

Are there any 8ft nice cranking rods on the market?

[ash]

For delta cranking I really like my Lamiglass 7power - this is an awesome stick, stout enough to rip the grass, parabolic enough to keep fish pegged.

For jerkbaits and open water cranking my Rich Forhan S-Glass on a seeker blank 7'4" revolver rod is still priemo.

[21farms]

i'm not familiar with F-glass...do you perhaps mean E-glass? if so, you should also give an S-glass a try before going to graphite or a composite. S-glass is lighter, more sensitive and crisper than the older and less expensive E-glass. the skeet reese SR705R is awesome.

[Beach Steve Biechman]

Ldub, The only glass I know of is E-glass and S-glass. Lamiglas makes mostly E-glass and graphite/glass composite, Seeker makes both E-glass and S-glass. There are some excellent graphite blanks available that are lite with good power and flexability but I have not gotten on a good crankbait bite to compare them. The composite blanks usually have the same tip 1/2 of the rod as a glass blank and butt section as a graphite blank however they do not seem to weigh less.
I make all four types of crankbait rods. They cost about $200.00 and you can have them built your way, (split grip, no fore grip, revolver, SIC guides, REC guides, 6' to 8' length) all with a lifetime warranty and about the same price.
A Skeet Reese SR705R from Lamiglas will cost you about $215.00, a custom rod from me, using the same blank, will cost about $200.00. It will be built your way and have a lifetime warranty.

Beach

[TomAtkeson]

+1 on the SR705R ugly yellow rod but it was awesome for crankin ... till some one stole it

[TomAtkeson]

Beach, I think when he says F-Glass he is just shortening it from fiberglass.

[BassManDan]

Well with three crankbait rod builds (all types of glass rods) under my belt, I figure I'll weigh in.

Lamiglas 7'6" Fast action E-glass (same as the Skeet 704, but 6" longer) - Excellent rod for long cast cranks, very soft tip, but tons of backbone to handle whatever crank fish your gonna catch.

Lamiglas 7' Fast action Composite (Graphite butt, E-glass tip)
Rock hard back bone and a nice quick, yet forgiving tip), good for ripbaits (probly not great in grass, just not heavy enough), but still an excellent rod that will keep even the wild fish buttoned on.

Vintage 8'6" S-Glass Fly rod (found this blank at a flea market and built a cranking rod out of it) Ridiculously slow action and VERY whippy, but an absolutley AMAZING rod for throwing ~1/4 oz cranks on light line. You definitley need to reel down and throw in a bit of a hookset to make sure you stick the fish, but it's practically impossible for a fish to get any leverage to throw the bait, the rod is just a mega-shock absorber, (don't know how it will handle a "real" fish?!?!

For fishing grass (even with cranks) the way to go is with something like a power 4, Mod/Fast jig rod, it allows you to rip grass, but you don't want those fish to move back into the grass because of the slower action of glass.

Just my 2,

[L Dub]

WOW... that's a lot to think about... Thanks to everyone for the input!

I'm not very well versed in cranking but I'm dedicating this year to learning it. I've had good success with ripbaits so far this year, but I don't want to miss out on other opportunities to put fish in the boat. I think the problem for me right now is that I fish mostly from my tube.
(It's a U-tube so I sit really low in the water; It affects my casting angles and how I can work the bait)

What's the difference between e-glass and s-glass? (Yes, I meant Fiberglass, thanks Tom)

It sounds like the consensus is with composites or some sort of glass rod. I've got a dentist appt. today down in RWC, maybe I'll stop by Hi's on the way there.

One more question, how much sensitivity do you guys look for when using these rods? I find that when I'm using rods I've been throwing my spinnerbaits and rattle-traps on, I don't feel my bait a lot of the times. If I crank faster I can/will, but I can't feel a darn thing if I'm trying to slow roll.

[21farms]

What's the difference between e-glass and s-glass?

here's a thread that discusses that: http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/view ... =9&t=34357

[ash]

Hi's may have a Seeker S-Glass rod - in the saltwater section. check it out and take up Steve's offer in terms of custom built. I throughly LOVE my S-glass rod for jerkbaits and open water cranking. Rippin through weeds though the Lamiglass 7 power has been EXCELLENT For me.

I believe the S-glass is a better composite, more sensative and stout. Few companies make them. Somone better then I can answer that, I have e-glass and S glass and the S glass is much better IMHO.

[Mark Pollard]

I secound the Skeet Reese Cranking Rod. The orange one It is the best rod for the application I own.

[SoCalBassAssassin]

Well I think I'll chime in. Crankbaits & jerkbaits are my favorite way to fish. I haven't tried a lot of these brands mentioned, but I have 2 G Loomis that I just love. I have the CBR841C & CBR845C . I use the 41 for the smaller cranks, jerk & lipless cranks. It a ML Mod Fast, can cast a mile, and plenty of backbone to pull in a real hog. I use the 45 for my deeper diving larger baits. It's a MH Mod Fast with more than enough backbone to rip the lure from the grass. They are really light too. JMO.