What transom saver are you using?

Jeff C. · Post by **Jeff C.** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:30 am

Went over some railroad tracks and broke another transom saver. I've just about had it with the type that braces on the trailer roller. The last time around my dealer tried to sell me the type that fits over the tilt/trim pistons. Anyone have experience with this type? I remember it was more expensive but if it lasts longer maybe it's worth the extra cost. Also since the piston type doesn't actually brace the motor on the trailer, I was skeptical that it actually does anything for the transom. Thoughts?

HawgCatcher · Post by **HawgCatcher** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:02 am

Hello Jeff,

I have been using the Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow for years now and haven't had any problems with it. The only thing that you have to watch out for is that it get put on the right way. It has to be angled upright to line up the the motor. My partner put it on the wrong way and when I got home it was broke. I hope this helps.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/store ... 0_225-11-0

Ken C. · Post by **Ken C.** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:16 am

That's almost like asking who makes the best boat... everyone has their opinion, and you'll hear alot! There are pros & cons to both types. The 'over the piston' type will not transfer any trailer shock to the motor as the 'brace' type will. On the other hand the 'over the piston' type transfers all the weight of the motor and road-bump-induced stress right to the transom, and could cause damage to your tilt/trim cylinders. Some will say to consider all of the pounding and stress your transom takes while running your boat - that trailering it with the piston-type will not do anything worse than already happens to it.

I use the brace-type and always have, but never had any problems. I've heard about bad things happening with both types, such as the brace falling off & "pole-vaulting" the lower unit, or the over the piston type destroying the top of the tilt cylinder.

I don't usually travel long distances with mine either - maybe that's why I haven't had any issues, plus I tend to slow way down when crossing rough tracks, dips, driveways, etc.

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:20 am

Used them both but prefer......"Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". Works for me.

Hey does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber grommets for these? Or maybe an alternative?

Ranger Jason · Post by **Ranger Jason** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:21 am

HawgCatcher wrote:Hello Jeff,

I have been using the Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow for years now and haven't had any problems with it. The only thing that you have to watch out for is that it get put on the right way. It has to be angled upright to line up the the motor. My partner put it on the wrong way and when I got home it was broke. I hope this helps.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/store ... 0_225-11-0

+ 1

norththird · Post by **norththird** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:02 am

I have the Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". No problems after 7 years.

civicrr · Post by **civicrr** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:30 am

Just to clear up some possible confusion...

The Lock n Stow braces between the motor & the motor bracket. It can not damaged the top of the trim or tilt rams as there is no contact with them at all.

There are 'sleeves' that are sold go on those rams but I thought they were only made for I/O. edit: I was wrong!

BTW, when I picked up my (used 2004) Ranger from Angler's Marine, they said the Lock n Stow was the way to go. No problems so far.

In the past, I have always used the type that went to the trailer roller (family type boats). Can't really imagine using this type with the Ranger as the transom sticks out so far. I am guessing other bass boats of similar design would make it tough too.

STONEFREE · Post by **STONEFREE** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:01 am

MOTO-STOP, BAR NONE,The best I have used. Call C&C MARINE, ask for it by name MOTO-STOP!!!!! Made in loomis cal.

LEN B · Post by **LEN B** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:14 am

Grape Ape wrote:Used them both but prefer......"Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". Works for me.

+2

Hey does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber grommets for these? Or maybe an alternative?

C&C Modesto has them

civicrr · Post by **civicrr** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:26 pm

Hmmm, interesting. That must have been what Ken C. was referring to when he said 'over the piston' type. I had not seen those before.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:28 pm

Tom Phillps make a GREAT one if you own a Merc.

Jeff

Byron · Post by **Byron** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 2:10 pm

LEN B wrote:
Grape Ape wrote:Used them both but prefer......"Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". Works for me.

+2

Hey does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber grommets for these? Or maybe an alternative?
C&C Modesto has them

Call - Swivl-eze 1-616-897-2385 - they will send you a new set for free. I took my new ones to the hardware store and found some rubber grommets that fit snug inside. Then I put 3 in each so the engine mount nuts bottom out on the grommets instead of the side lips of the bushing. They have now lasted 3 years and still look new.

M. Warner · Post by **M. Warner** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 2:26 pm

does the swivel eze work on yamahas?

STONEFREE · Post by **STONEFREE** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 3:50 pm

MOTO-STOP is one peice, aluminium billit, you will never brake it, never!!!!!!!!!!!!not even on purpose!!!!!

STONEFREE · Post by **STONEFREE** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 4:01 pm

Before you buy anything go to this site for transome savers ratings, trisan@comcast.net mike dean owner916 652 6429

kopper_bass · Post by **kopper_bass** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:48 pm

stonefree,
which site were you mentioning? there was no link, just your email address.

Kopper

Gary Dobyns · Post by **Gary Dobyns** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:56 pm

Hey Jeff. I got the answer for you. Try Lock-N-Haul. It's simple as heck. Check out smithfishing.com It is so simple, but works the best of any out there. If you're using a set-back plate, you will continue to break toters, not the Lock-n-Haul. They work on all engines.

hippie · Post by **hippie** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:23 pm

I've got a question for you guys? these new transom savers are they really good for your boat. when your towing they put all the stress on your transom instead of on the trailer. Im not an engineer, but it seems wrong. I personally have stuck with the traditional or old school style and probably always will use them. I cant afford a new boat every couple years and definatly don't want to pay for treansom repairs. I bet after enough time those transom savors kills your transom

Byron · Post by **Byron** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:30 pm

hippie wrote:I've got a question for you guys? these new transom savers are they really good for your boat. when your towing they put all the stress on your transom instead of on the trailer. Im not an engineer, but it seems wrong. I personally have stuck with the traditional or old school style and probably always will use them. I cant afford a new boat every couple years and definatly don't want to pay for treansom repairs. I bet after enough time those transom savors kills your transom

No road can put the same stress on the transom as hauling *** across wakes at the lake under full throttle. I have a wimpy little Nitro 640LX with a 375lb Optimax on it. After more than 200 trips from LAX to Casitas and back with a Lok-n-stow you will find 0 stress cracks on my boat. When I got the boat from Anglers it came with a crappy little factory transom saver. By the time I would get to the lake it would be off to the side of the roller and the motor was leaning over. It was scuffing the paint off the lower unit, and just plain sucked. With the Lok-N-Stow the motor does not move and stays straight.

Jeff C. · Post by **Jeff C.** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:07 pm

Thanks Guys. Lots of good choices here. Looks like a common thread is that hardly anyone is using the old style that braces on the trailer anymore. Thanks again, Jeff.

Phil Crader · Post by **Phil Crader** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:21 pm

Thumbs up for the MotoStop. I have towed across Hwy 12, Eight Mile Road, and all the train tracks going to Pardee countless times, and I've had no problems.

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:26 pm

Byron wrote:
LEN B wrote:
Grape Ape wrote:Used them both but prefer......"Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". Works for me.

+2

Hey does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber grommets for these? Or maybe an alternative?
C&C Modesto has them
Call - Swivl-eze 1-800-435-0237 - they will send you a new set for free. I took my new ones to the hardware store and found some rubber grommets that fit snug inside. Then I put 3 in each so the engine mount nuts bottom out on the grommets instead of the side lips of the bushing. They have now lasted 3 years and still look new.

Thanks! I'll call them later on today!

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:46 pm

Gary Dobyns wrote:Hey Jeff. I got the answer for you. Try Lock-N-Haul. It's simple as heck. Check out smithfishing.com It is so simple, but works the best of any out there. If you're using a set-back plate, you will continue to break toters, not the Lock-n-Haul. They work on all engines.

Gary, after looking at this Lock-N-Haul mounting video I would have concerns about how insecure it is at the forward mount area. Looks like one small bump in the road and the front portion would fall out. The video isn't the greatest at showing where it attaches to. Looks like it doesn't really "attach" to anything.

Phil · Post by **Phil** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:21 am

Gary Dobyns wrote:Hey Jeff. I got the answer for you. Try Lock-N-Haul. It's simple as heck. Check out smithfishing.com It is so simple, but works the best of any out there. If you're using a set-back plate, you will continue to break toters, not the Lock-n-Haul. They work on all engines.

WHERE DO YOU PURCHASE THEM ?
I THINK I HAVE A BASS BOAT DEALER THAT NEEDS TO BE AWARE OF THIS, THEY TOW THERE BOATS AROUND WITH NOTHING, JUST THE ENGINE HANGING OUT THERE.

JIGS

Lookin4Bass · Post by **Lookin4Bass** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:27 am

I don't understand how any brace that doesn't dissipate the load between the transom and the trailer can be of much benefit.

Without sharing the load between the transom and the trailer what are you accomplishing?

I use a regular old transom saver and have never (knock wood) had a problem with it.

I noticed on the National Geographic special "Hooked on Bass" that KVD uses the same transom saver I do.

Maybe the Transom Saver company pays him to use it and I assume if it breaks and damages his motor someone else will pick up the tab, but if it's good enough for him.......

kb · Post by kb » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:38 am

The Moto Stop from Mike Dean is the best motor stowing system out there. They the most solid and your motor doesn't move. I have been using one for three years now and love it.

kb

You can get the moto stop at Capitol City Marine and not sure where else.

Brian D. · Post by **Brian D.** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:59 am

for moto stop. Its prolly the most expensive solution (over $100) out there, but looks well made with quality craftsmanship.

http://www.moto-stops.com/

STONEFREE · Post by **STONEFREE** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:42 am

Here is MOTO-STOPS contact, MOTO-STOPS.COM PH# 916-997-6429

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:00 pm

Byron wrote:
LEN B wrote:
Grape Ape wrote:Used them both but prefer......"Swivl-Eze Lock 'N Stow". Works for me.

+2

Hey does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber grommets for these? Or maybe an alternative?
C&C Modesto has them
Call - Swivl-eze 1-800-435-0237 - they will send you a new set for free. I took my new ones to the hardware store and found some rubber grommets that fit snug inside. Then I put 3 in each so the engine mount nuts bottom out on the grommets instead of the side lips of the bushing. They have now lasted 3 years and still look new.

Byron that phone number is "NFG". Do you have another number for them?

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:04 pm

Gary Dobyns contacted me for more information. You are correct that the Lock-n-Haul doesn't "attach" to anything. It is simply wedged between the lower unit and the motor mount just like nearly all of the transom savers, except that it effectively eliminates all of the shaking that goes on when trailering. I hope these pictures will help you see how the device works

Left to right.

A 250HP Yamaha with the universal fit Lock-n-Haul installed. This patent pending device is the ONLY universal fit device that stops ALL of the movement of the outboard without the use of steering clips.

A 225HP Mercury Optimax with the same device that works on most sizes and makes of outboards. It is light, tough and easily stowable.

A 250HP Evinrude E-tec with the same Lock-n-Haul installed.

If you have any questions please feel free to contact me at:

jim@lock-n-haul.com
800.503.8749

hippie · Post by **hippie** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:28 pm

Don't worry byron your Nitro will have stress cracks i had an 18 foot nitro and the 150 motor was ready to fall off the transom. Nitro is none for there stress cracks . well you show me the evidence that the new transom totes absorb the pounding like the traditional trailer to lower unit transom saver and ill be convinced until then I have to go with the old school type it only makes sense. and if casitas is the only place your fishing well your never going to put stress on the boat any how

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:01 pm

If you stabilize the motor and eliminate the shaking, the "shock" will be absorbed somewhere else on the boat/trailer.

Kinetic energy is energy that is stored in a moving object. The only way to dissapate kinetic energy is through friction, and friction can only occur between moving objects.

The movement of the outboard is harmful to both the steering and trim pivots, and through them the transom is also affected by transference of shock or kinetic energy.

If you take a solid object and attach it to another solid object in a way that no movement (friction) is possible, the two behave like one object and the kinetic energy simply passes through and keeps moving through other loose objects that are attached, until it can dissapate.

jim@lock-n-haul.com
800.503.8749

aNNieNsaLTIE · Post by **aNNieNsaLTIE** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:18 pm

I agree with hippie.... Are TRANSOM savers suppose to save your transom? I thought that was the general idea, to help your transom not crack when you go over railroad tracks.. so if you broke one today what would have happen if your trailer did not absorb the shock and your transom instead?

Steven

Byron · Post by **Byron** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:21 pm

Grape Ape wrote:
Byron wrote:
LEN B wrote: C&C Modesto has them
Call - Swivl-eze 1-800-435-0237 - they will send you a new set for free. I took my new ones to the hardware store and found some rubber grommets that fit snug inside. Then I put 3 in each so the engine mount nuts bottom out on the grommets instead of the side lips of the bushing. They have now lasted 3 years and still look new.
Byron that phone number is "NFG". Do you have another number for them?

Try this one - 616.897.2385

Byron · Post by **Byron** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:07 pm

hippie wrote:Don't worry byron your Nitro will have stress cracks i had an 18 foot nitro and the 150 motor was ready to fall off the transom. Nitro is none for there stress cracks . well you show me the evidence that the new transom totes absorb the pounding like the traditional trailer to lower unit transom saver and ill be convinced until then I have to go with the old school type it only makes sense. and if casitas is the only place your fishing well your never going to put stress on the boat any how

What absorbs the shock while hauling across the lake riding over waves and wakes under WOT ?? No trip to the lake can match this stress. To each his own, I towed with the conventional type for 15 years. The only real problem was the paint damage to the lower unit and it's size. I debated the swap for quite a while. Unless you bolt your boat to the trailer you have a constantly adjusting triangle with the old school style. The boat does shift slightly on the trailer every bump in the road. The Lock n stow type lock the motor to the boat solid and they become 1 unit. Now the engine mounts absorb the shock just like they were intended. And I'm just fine with being locked into Casitas, it's great not having to put up with "Lake Lice" that tear up all the other empty lakes.

Ray · Post by **Ray** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:23 am

Seems there's a few good options to the std transom saver, personally, i've broken too many to admit, settled on a lock-n-stow, but see a few other options that will work equally as well. Just a note about the lock-n-stow type transom saver, watch out for your ground wire! I have a '98 optimax and didn't pay attention when using the lock-n-stow, gnd wire got pitched and broke free. Regardless, nice little trick with any transom saver i learned of recently, is to run a strap around your motor, using transom tie down eyes for the motor strap, keeps the motor snug to the transom saver.

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:36 am

Byron wrote:
Grape Ape wrote:
Byron wrote: Call - Swivl-eze 1-800-435-0237 - they will send you a new set for free. I took my new ones to the hardware store and found some rubber grommets that fit snug inside. Then I put 3 in each so the engine mount nuts bottom out on the grommets instead of the side lips of the bushing. They have now lasted 3 years and still look new.
Byron that phone number is "NFG". Do you have another number for them?
Try this one - 616.897.2385

Byron that one did it! Thanks they are sending out new ones to me for free!

Byron · Post by **Byron** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:43 pm

Cool deal! That's customer service.

waynegro · Post by **waynegro** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:17 pm

Ray wrote:Seems there's a few good options to the std transom saver, personally, i've broken too many to admit, settled on a lock-n-stow, but see a few other options that will work equally as well. Just a note about the lock-n-stow type transom saver, watch out for your ground wire! I have a '98 optimax and didn't pay attention when using the lock-n-stow, gnd wire got pitched and broke free. Regardless, nice little trick with any transom saver i learned of recently, is to run a strap around your motor, using transom tie down eyes for the motor strap, keeps the motor snug to the transom saver.

Just wanted to add something that may be helpful regarding the bungee/rubber strap over the old school type transom savers....

We use the trailer roller to LU one on a 178VX - Merc 150, started strapping it on every trip whether it's just right over to Hodges, or up to the Crown Jewel of the Central Coast....

Going in for service, the dealer saw it and STRONGLY recommended we NOT use that strap. Said it could lead to the pole vault deal if the bottom comes of the roller. Makes sense I guess.

Just wanted to pass on some knowledge that was passed to me. I have no idea which is better.

Grape Ape · Post by **Grape Ape** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:01 pm

Byron......I just received....not only one set....but two! Awesome....Thanks buddy!

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