Navigation Lights

FishDiver · Post by **FishDiver** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:42 am

My nav lights died recently. I checked the wiring and I am getting power to the switch. I think the rocker switch is dead. Is there any problem with bypassing the switch and having power to the nav light sockets all the time?

R. Duzac · Post by **R. Duzac** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:15 am

I don't think you would want to do that I believe if you have power to the contacts it will cause extra corrosion at the contacts. Not 100% sure though.

I have seen similar problem before and it was actually the contact between the light and it's contact inside the light itself.
Have you tried cleaning these contacts?

Rene

blkdog812 · Post by **blkdog812** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:32 am

just replace the switch, if its bad. do you see if there is power on the contacts... might just be a corrision on the nav contacts

toddmc · Post by **toddmc** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:17 am

If you have removable lights, like most bass boats, the plugs are easy to replace with just a few screws. They only cost a few bucks.

Rich461 · Post by **Rich461** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:31 am

You will need a tester. Either a continuity (light bulb type) or a full electronic testing unit. (about $15 at Walmart) For this a light bulb is best.
Check the wiring at the switch by finding the main positive (+) feed first. Then find the (+) wire going to each light.(Usually grey wire with red or blue stripe)
Attach the ground wire of the tester to a good ground and test it on the main feed line.
Then press the switch...test both of the (+) contacts on the switch.
If it doesn't light up, the switch is probably corroded. But let's try fixing the switch first, before you buy one.

Make a diagram of the switch contacts and what wire goes where to the switch. (Disconnect battery at this point.)
Remove the wires and remove the switch from the dash.
Most of these switches come apart fairly easily, so figure it out, without breaking the "ears" off
of the locking points.
Inside you will see copper connector points for the wiring, a toggle arm, and one or two tiny springs.
Take a minute to see how it is put together and make a diagram if needed.
Then take all the moving parts out and clean them with soda water and a brush. Clean the contacts inside the switch.
After cleaning, dry the parts very good.
Then put it back together, and hook up the wires.
Now hook up the battery and retest the switch. If the switch works but the lights don't come on, then pull and clean
the light sockets (with the soda water) and retest.

Most bassboats come with a second switch up in the front of the boat. Check to make sure it is working also.
99% of the time it is corrosion that makes these lights not work. Once in a while there are two inline fuses in this circuit
that can be blown also. So just check out the wiring with your tester.

Good luck.

FishDiver · Post by **FishDiver** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:25 pm

I have a volt/ohm meter. I am getting power to the switch. All the switches have indicator lights showing if the switch is turned on or not. The rest of the switches for bilge, livewell, etc. all work, including the indicators. The nav light indicator does not go on. The rocker switches are attached with rivets so I will need to drill them out to replace the switch, if I can find one that fits a 1984 Bass Tracker. I am contemplating two options:

1-wire the nav lights to the unused accessory switch. This is a single position switch so I would wire the bow and stern lights in the nav position and lose the anchor setting that only lights the stern light.

2-Bypass the switch with short jumpers and have power to the light sockets all the time. The sockets are well-lubed with silicon grease so they should not corrode.

Any tips?

Rich461 · Post by **Rich461** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:36 pm

Sounds like the switch has rotted out. You are better off replacing the switch, instead of doing a half ***
fix. You could be getting into an area where, if it shorts out and bypasses the fuse, things could get
really hot in a hurry. Then more stuff will go wrong.
Take that switch apart like I said earlier and see what is wrong inside. You will need a DP/DT switch.
(Double pole/Double throw) Then just X the hot to both poles on the navigation side so that both lights
turn on without feeding back into the switch.
Sounds easy doesn't it. Sorry.

I don't know where you are but if no one has a switch then order it from here or one of the sponsors on here.
This is the switch you need:
http://www.ezacdc.com/Scripts/prodView. ... roduct=232

You can PM me if you need some exacting advice about this. I have over 20 years of experience rewiring boats and cars.

scott h · Post by **scott h** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:19 pm

Give west marine a try they have all kinds of gadgets for boats I took a stroll through the Pittsburg store one day not looking for anything in particular and was quite surprized at the variety of stuff they have, I ended up buying a oversize stainless steel clam shell for my ram mount and a few other little handy things and they do have a pretty good selection of switches and stuff.