Carolina rigging

[MB916]

Just curious what size line is best for carolina rigging. Should it be mono or floro.

[Levy]

Floro for sure. If in the delta 15 LB minimum.

[Turkeyman]

I have better luck with the leader being mono as it will help float the bait up off the bottom a little. I typically use 12 lb in the lakes and will go down to 8 on a spinning rod if needed.

[DanWarme]

For me, carolina fishing is more bubba bait tactics, so I use 20# on the main line and will drop my leader down as appropriate based on hook and bait size, along with water clarity. Leader can be anywhere from 6-15# with 12# being average for me. I also usually use 3/4 to 1oz. sinkers. Baits are generally lizards, french fries, big grubs or big worms. I go this route to cover water, make longer casts, stay in contact better in deeper water.

Anything lighter and in my mind, I am more split shotting that carolina riggin.
Then it is 12# or less, and the corresponding smaller sinkers and baits. I usually split shot with 8#, but will go to 5# at times. Tactics and purpose determine tackle.

[nipples]

Just curious what size line is best for carolina rigging. Should it be mono or floro.

Best is rather subjective and varies based on several factors... If best means more bang for the buck, then mono is best. If best means best line for the technique without regard to price, then Fluorocarbon is it. Mono is far less expensive, and will do fine for anyone out for some fun fishing. Fluorocarbon is not as buoyant and will have less line belly, and that translates into more sensitivity, which might translate into more fish (might depends on the person holding the rod). However Fluorocarbon comes at a higher price tag than mono, so it's really up to you to decide which best you want. The myth that Fluorocarbon doesn't stretch is just that, a myth. It has been proven that Fluorocarbon stretches, and that some of it stretches more when wet.

Tackle Tour did a great job reviewing Fluorocarbon and disproving some of the myths surrounding it. I highly recommend anyone who is considering Fluorocarbon to read it as it is a real eye opener. And Fluorocarbon, just like mono, has many different levels of quality based on manufacturer. I also find it interesting how big the diameter to #test ratio is for some of these lines. And yet guys still fish and swear by the lines on the larger diameter/#test end of the spectrum like Seaguar, Gamma, and Maxima. But then again, some guys still believe a lot of the myths about Fluorocarbon, so there is a factor of perspective and ignorance to consider. I feel the quality lines are the ones that are stronger for a smaller diameter line like P-Line, Trilene 100%, and Bass Pro, but that too is up to you to decide for yourself. Here is a link to the TT article.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html

I fish tourneys so I go for quality because I like the edge that a less visible line provides. I still use mono if I am targeting a topwater bite because it floats and doesn't hinder the action of my topwater baits by sinking. I use braid for punching and frogs, and I use Fluorocarbon for everything else. Some guys are old school and go for heavy lines for everything. I go for the smallest test I can get away with unless I am using a bigger line diameter to slow the fall of a bait (example: I dropshot with 8# on motherlode lakes, but dropshot with 10# on Clearlake and the Delta).

Fluorocarbon is generally the best choice for C-Rigging because it doesn't "belly" as bad as mono and therefore keeps you tighter to your bait. (however, with C-Rigging, sometimes it doesn't matter because the fish strike like a freight train, but on a lighter bite, it makes a huge difference). I generally C-Rig with 10# to 20# depending on what I am targeting, how many snags I might run into, average size fish I expect to catch, size of the bait I am dragging, rod I am using, how deep I am dragging, the speed I want to drag and maintain bottom contact, etc. So it's kinda hard to give you a specific answer to the size of the line, because there are a lot of considerations based on conditions and factors. My generic answer is to start around 15# and go up or down from there based on what you like.

Good Luck,

-Nips-

[ash]

C-Riggin,

My C-Rig setup looks something like this 17lb fluro main line, a barrel swivle, 10-14lb mono leader for lakes with lots of rocks its hard to beat the Mojo Rock Hopper hands down best C-rig weight in town, for sparse grass and rocks Mojo weight standard for heavy vegitation or grass Bullet weight - I fish lead for my rigs and my starting weight is 3-4oz and will adjust up or down from their. Leader length 24-36" I once used 5' leaders in SoCal but I missed fish and that is a lot of line to pickup to the weight and swing on - 36" is pretty money for most applications. Keep that weight on the bottom, drag pause or just keep on draggin, when you feel a fish tap or playin with your line - slowly reel down until you can feel the swivel come to the weight and THEN cross their eyes.

Its Funny I pull out the C-rig alot during pre-fish and during spring transition - it is a great search bait, and here is the secret a Senko or Yum Dinger if you dont have one of those a Robo Zipper Grub will do a 3/0 Owner J-Hook and slide that weight until you feel a bottom composition change - then pop it just a tad so that your bait is now hovering up in the water column drifting lazily down - right into the transition area - now and this is important DEAD STICK IT - dont move a muscle - the better the transition area the longer the dead stick - just picture yourself casting a senko into a weed line and dead sticking - you have done the exact same presentation but at 20-35' Not a bad way to flip senkos